If this is your first time in 4-H, it may all seem pretty amazing what llamas and people can accomplish together. If you’ve been in 4-H before, you already know a lot; but there is always more to learn! You senior kids should help the newcomers to get to know their llamas, and learn how to work with them. Remember how little you knew the first time you ever met a llama!

Llamas are sensitive, intelligent animals, and they have been trained for centuries to work with people doing daily tasks such as carrying packs. We expect even more of them, including grooming, traveling to shows, and performing intricate obstacle courses. Since they can’t talk, you have to learn how to "read" them; using their body language. Sometimes, when you ask a llama to do something, he may refuse. Often, this is because the llama simply does not understand what you want. You need to give clear, consistent signals to your llama when teaching him new things. Sometimes you can break down a difficult task into smaller tasks that are easier to learn a little at a time. Experienced llama trainers know that losing your patience with a llama does nothing to help them learn, and ends in frustration for both the llama and the trainer. An atmosphere of trust and learning should always be present. Your leader and the older 4-H kids can help you if you are having trouble getting your llama to understand something, and it is better to ask for help rather than to force the llama to do something, or to simply give up.

Most llamas entering a 4-H program have learned to accept wearing a halter and to lead reasonably well. There are some, however, who have not been worked with very much. Llamas usually learn to lead fairly well in about 3 or 4 training sessions, so even an untrained llama can be brought up to speed very quickly.

Ideally, you would bring your llama into a catch-pen or stall area, and be able to walk up to the llama and either put your arm or a catch rope around his neck. The llama should stand still and allow you to easily slip the halter on over his nose, and fasten the straps. Correct halter fit is important; for tips on halter fit, click here. You may have to work with a lesser trained llama, who might try to avoid the halter. Patience and perseverance is the key!>

Your llama should lead on your right side, with his head slightly behind your shoulder. Different ways of holding the lead rope are appropriate for different situations, but NEVER wrap the rope around your hand! If the llama should bolt, you could be injured. Tell you llama "walk" each time you want him to move, "stop" when you want him to stop. Usually a slight jiggling or tug of the lead rope works better than just pulling on the rope to try to encourage the llama to walk on command. Well-trained llamas cue off their handler without any signals from the lead, or even voice commands; this is the ideal you are working towards.

If a llama plants his feet and won’t move, and jiggling or slight tugging on the lead will not make him move, try pulling the lead to one side. This will take the llama off-balance, and make him take a step. Often this is all that is needed to get him moving again.

Make yourself aware of what you are doing with the lead rope at all times. Continuous pulling on the rope, or swinging it back and forth, will confuse the llama, and make him tired and eventually unwilling to respond to your requests. The lead rope is your strongest method of communicating with your llama, especially while he is still learning. Make sure you only tug on the rope when you have something to say!

Your llama should learn that your hands will not hurt him. You should be able to stroke your llama all over his body, including his head, ears, face, legs, belly and tail. Most llamas will take some time to get used to this, so be reassuring and patient. Short sessions where you "desensitize" your llama to touch work the best.

For a llama that is fearful of your touch, try stroking him on his neck with the BACK of your hand, rather than the palm. The llama knows the difference; the palm of the hand can grasp, whereas the back of your hand cannot. This will allow him to realize you will not grab him, and as he relaxes, you can begin to stroke him normally, working slowly to desensitize his entire body.

To desensitize a llamas legs, some people use a wand and slowly stroke the wand on each of the llama’s legs. As they begin to realize this won’t harm them, you might move to a soft brush and progressively brush farther and farther down his legs. Eventually you should be able to handle his legs, and pick up all four feet for nail trimming.

Grooming is an extension of handling. Grooming with a soft brush can begin along with desensitization of your llama. Blowers are often used to remove debris, and you should be aware that the blower might frighten him at first. Shearing is also important, and llamas sometimes are frightened of the shears; perhaps they are afraid they will be cut! Be careful, take your time, and have patience!

Grooming your llama’s fiber is important to prevent matting, and allow air to flow through the fiber and keep the llama cool. Grooming should be done progressively throughout the season, so that you do not have to do a marathon grooming session right before a show! Remember that hair-pulling can be painful to your llama, and very lengthy grooming sessions can be tiring and stressful for your llama---and you!